A Sticky History: Gummy Making Before Modern Machinery
Before the advent of steam-jacketed kettles and continuous cooling tunnels-innovations that define modern industrial gummy production-confectioners relied entirely on manual skill, patience, and careful heat control. Gummy candies, as we know them today, were not a staple 100 years ago; the gelatin-based fruit gum (the direct ancestor of the gummy bear) was perfected in the 1920s by Hans Riegel in Germany. But even then, manufacturing was a hands-on, labor-intensive craft.
How They Were Made 100 Years Ago
In the 1910s and 1920s, a small candy workshop making gelatin-based gums would have used the following manual methods:
- Direct-Fire Cooking in Copper Kettles: The sugar, glucose syrup, and water were heated in open copper kettles over a gas or coal flame. The confectioner had to stir constantly and watch the temperature carefully, often using a thermometer but also relying on experience (e.g., the “soft ball” or “hard ball” test in cold water) to know when the syrup was ready.
- Hydration by Hand: Gelatin (usually sheet or powdered form) was soaked in cold water and then gently warmed over a water bath to melt. This was added to the hot sugar syrup. Stirring was manual with a large wooden paddle.
- Molding in Starch Trays: This was the critical manual method. Cornstarch was sifted into shallow wooden trays. An imprint mold-a board with rows of shaped knobs-was pressed into the starch to create cavities. The warm liquid gum was poured into these cavities by hand using a small pitcher or funnel. This “mogul” process was entirely manual.
- Setting at Room Temperature: There were no cooling tunnels. Filled starch trays were stacked and left on racks in a cool, dry room for 12 to 48 hours, allowing the candies to set slowly and evenly. Air circulation was controlled by opening windows or using simple fans.
- Finishing by Hand: Once set, the candies were brushed free of starch using soft brushes, then polished with a light coating of oil or wax (applied manually) and sometimes tumbled in a cloth bag with sugar or citric acid.
Adaptable Manual Methods for Today’s Small-Batch Artisans
Modern small-batch makers can absolutely adapt these historical techniques without industrial-scale equipment. Here are the key manual methods that translate well:
- Double-Boilered Kettle for Temperature Control: Instead of a steam-jacketed kettle, use a heavy-bottomed pot over a gas flame and a separate water bath (a large pot filled with simmering water) for delicate steps like melting gelatin. A good candy thermometer is essential. Stir with a heat-resistant silicone spatula.
- Pouring into Molds by Hand: Skip the starch tray. Today, silicone candy molds (bear, fruit, or custom shapes) are widely available. Pour the hot gum mixture carefully using a small ladle or a heatproof squeeze bottle. This gives excellent control and requires no special machinery.
- Setting in a Refrigerator or Cool Room: A commercial fridge or a dedicated cool room replaces the cooling tunnel. Place filled molds on trays and refrigerate for 1-2 hours (or until firm). For larger batches, a simple air-conditioned room works-just ensure consistent temperature and airflow.
- Hand Finishing and Tumbling: The old methods of brushing off starch and polishing or coating candies are still used by artisan makers today. A simple drum sander or even a sealed plastic bag can be used to tumble gummies with sugar, citric acid, or a light oil for shine. No tunnel needed.
- Small-Batch Starch Molding (Optional): For the most authentic texture and “old-school” look, you can still use a starch tray system. Build a shallow wooden tray, fill with cornstarch, and press a wooden imprint board to make cavities. This is ideal for very small, artisanal runs and produces a unique, slightly dusty finish.
The core principle remains: precise heat control, gentle cooling, and careful handling. By mastering these manual methods, today’s small-batch artisan can create gummy candies that honor the craft of a century ago-without needing industrial equipment.